Wild Boys and Wild Waters

Portugal, Oktober 2018

Zé Nuno was my first teacher initiating me to surf three years ago, when escaping from a claustrophobic Yoga Camp i had initially booked myself in to. Him and his partner Jeffrey had just started their own surfschool Boa Onda. They were so patient dealing with us total beginners laying in the sand on the board trying to practice the pop up looking like inmobile stranded whales. It was even worse getting something together in the white waters. Amazing how i made it up to now into the green waves still as a greenhorn beginner, him giving me the same instructions over and over again. What a work of Sysiphos. It is so admirable to see people enjoying their jobs , putting so much effort in it and being passionate and happy to see their results in progress. Ibon is on the surfschool team since this year aswell as they are doing really well in expanding. 

They must be so exhausted by the end of the season, not wanting to see a single tourist for the next five or six month during winter time. Then off travelling with friends to surf in Sumatra or simply enjoying family and quality time in this wonderful place declared natural park. I had been here already in the winter once or twice. 

I adore being in the water no matter under what conditions either catching waves or not and i dont even care anymore. Wild waters wake you up when feeling panic of drownding or loosing energy as you get smashed by the washing machine waves, paddling with last strength in your arms away from the hot zone.

Zé Nuno found out through this blog about Mr P and i love the fact that he does not ask any questions. Tomorrow is always another day to try out your best , he just said. That is exactly what i will do until it is not possible anymore.

My initial plan to buy a pice of land in this area a bit more inwards into the mountains has been vanished away although i really fell in love with this area. But want to keep it simple with little responsibilities and duties to be able to discover even more of the rest of the world. 

Sun has just dissapeared in the Atlantic Ocean and i am opening a bottle of Vinho Verde.